This was my second trip to Belfast, Northern Ireland to see the International Wall murals, so I knew the neighborhood I wanted to go to and what I wanted to document while there. Due to some issues with my flights, a short trip was even shorter, and I ended up having only one full day in Belfast which provided a great opportunity to get the photos I wanted. Belfast recently opened their brand new Grand Central Train Station, so my train from Dublin arrived at the new station. I went to Mass at St. Peter’s Catholic Cathedral in the West Belfast neighborhood, which was not only a beautiful place, but also historically important to the Catholic community in Belfast, and the famed Divis Flats were built next to the church. I spoke with some of the local residents about the International Wall mural project, and got names of contacts to interview for my project. I was surprised and excited to find out just how small the West Belfast neighborhood is, despite being geographically a significant part of the city, it is a community that is well connected.
St. Peter’s Catholic Cathedral, Belfast. An integral part of the West Belfast neighborhood, the Cathedral was built in the early 1860s in a Gothic style. The Divis Flats complex was built next to the Cathedral in 1966 and was a stronghold for Irish Republicans during the Troubles. St. Peter’s is located just two blocks from the majority of political murals in the West Belfast area.
After Mass, I walked just two blocks to the Falls Road where I photographed the International Wall murals. They were in nearly pristine condition, which was surprising since the weather in Belfast would lead me to expect some chipping and erosion of the paint, however they were in the same condition as when I saw them in June. The wall is part of the “Peace Walls” in Belfast, that separate the Catholic and Protestant communities, and is currently painted with a series of Palestinian solidarity murals. I chatted with neighbors and tourists near the murals, the neighbors were particularly excited to hear about my research. One man told me about Brendan Hughes (pictured in one of the murals), who grew up in the West Belfast neighborhood, and he pointed out his house—Hughes is famous for being a member of the Provisional IRA and while in prison leading the “dirty protest.” On the Falls Road, I stopped at the Garden of Remembrance, looking for more Palestinian solidarity messaging. I did find some on the walls leading up to the Garden. My last major stop along the Falls Road was the famed Bobby Sands mural on the side of the Sinn Fein offices building, which is also in near perfect condition and is a common stop on the “Black Taxi Tour” route, which provides tourists with a guided and curated look at famous sites from the Troubles.
International Wall, Divis Street, Belfast. These children are the centerpiece of the International Wall mural series in West Belfast, organized by the “Painting for Palestine” community group in early 2024. They represent the children of Ireland, Palestine, and South Africa.
International Wall, Divis Street, Belfast. Painted from a digital graphic designed by Palestinian artist Said Hassan, this mural features Khaled Nabhan holding his granddaughter, Reem, age 3, who was killed in an Israeli airstrike in Nov 2023. Khaled was killed just over a year later.
International Wall, Divis Street, Belfast. This mural, a recreation of Palestinian artist Heba Zagout’s original work, shows the city of Bethlehem with fireworks.
I was successful in documenting the Palestinian solidarity murals, and I appreciated seeing them at a different time of the year, since I previously saw them at the beginning of the tourist season. I also explored more of the neighborhood and talked with local residents at the church and around the murals. The people of West Belfast are incredibly friendly, they love to tell tourists about their city, and they are happy to share their stories with those who have a genuine desire to learn more about their community. I am truly blessed and thankful for the opportunity to travel to Belfast to see the murals, to meet the people, and to see the context for these pieces of art. This is certainly an experience I will never forget!
