Museum – J-term Abroad: Roman Structures, Engineering & Society
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Museum

Rome

Museums Galore

“Bold strategy Cotton.  We’ll see if it pays off.”  Our thoughts exactly 12 days ago when we first were put through the trials of Gino (similar to the labors of Hercules but with less physical requirements).  Today marked the final day with our faithful guide as he led us through bits of the Diocletian Baths and the Roman National Museums.  So here we go!

 

An early departure at around 9 in the morning, we all grabbed our headsets for what we hope was the last time.  Those bulky tourist beacons have very annoying headsets.  Our destination, the Diocletian Baths, were not far enough to justify a bus, so we headed off to the subway for a quick ride.  It wasn’t long before some members of the group were left behind after not making it onto the tram in time.  Eventually we reconnoitered at the appropriate stop and surfaced.

 

When the moon hits your eye like a big piazza pie...

When the moon hits your eye like a big piazza pie…

Outside the subway station is the large, circular Piazza della Repubblica that had a fountain at the center around which traffic circled in the mad and unorganized fashion that is Roman driving.  In front of us, the arching buildings.  Behind us, a church.  It wasn’t always that way, so let me explain.  Way back in the days of Rome, that entire area was a part of the Diocletian Baths.  The baths were a public area for Romans of all classes to clean themselves at any temperature they saw fit.  The arching buildings I mentioned used to be walls at the entrance of the structure and the church was the tepidarium.  As for the piazza, that, along with a massive square area on its sides, was a garden.  Hard to believe, right?  After the short explanation, Gino lead us into the church, properly named the Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (let’s just call it the Santa Maria).  As I mentioned before, it used to be the tepidarium, the room temperature baths of the complex.  When the baths were in disrepair, Michelangelo redesigned the interior to be a large, highly decorative church which in later years was used by monks but is currently a regular church and tourist attraction.

The mouthful of a name for this church translates into the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs

The mouthful of a name for this church translates into the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs

But that’s not all.  In 1702 a meridian line was placed in the floor and a hole drilled into the wall.  That meridian line served the purpose of telling the date fairly accurately by having the sun hit the line at noon at varying degree marks corresponding to months and dates.  At the end closest to the wall is an ellipse that was supposed to track and predict star movements, but unfortunately that one no longer works.

 

Some time later, we exited the building and walked around the block to the other side of the ruins to arrive at the entrance to one of the branches of the Roman National Museum.  The first one we entered was the smallest.  It had its own small security check but it was totally unnecessary.  Inside were remains of statues, pieces of the original structure, and the frigidarium portion of the baths.  There were two small squares that branched off but looked like they had received renovations.  One had a well in the center and the other a fountain.  The museum also had a strange modern photography exhibit for some odd reason.  It didn’t exactly fit in with anything…

Around the corner was the frigidarium

Around the corner was the frigidarium

We didn’t spend much time in there because there wasn’t a ton to see.  About a block ahead of us was the next, larger branch of the museum.  It had four floors with one of the four dedicated to coins.  At that point, Gino took his leave and we all meandered through the museum at our own paces.  There was a ton to see, but a lot of the same types of pieces like statue heads and mosaics.  Some of the art stood out, but those pieces were few and far between.

Made by the quite impressive lost wax method

Made by the quite impressive lost wax method

 

Impressive, no?

Impressive, no?

That pretty much wraps up our Saturday.  Tomorrow is a free day, so nothing will be posted unless something extraordinary comes up.  Monday marks a milestone in our journey.  It will be on that day that we leave Rome, only to return on the night before coming back to the states.  Now I don’t know how the wifi is going to turn out at our upcoming hotels, so I can’t guarantee posts will be regular, but we’ll do our best.  Have a good one!

 

– Chris Apfeld

Field Trips!, Rome, Universities

Moving and Grooving

For not having traveled a very long distance, we sure did a lot of walking and standing today.  The subject of today was, as some of you may know, the Vatican Museum and the John Cabot University.  Luckily, the museum was about 100 yards from the door of our hotel, but the university was a mile south.

 

Around 10:30 in the morning, we all stumbled into the hotel lobby to away our infamous guide, Gino.  Unlike usually, we did not receive headsets because we were required to use the Vatican’s brand.  Out the door and up some steps across the street, we arrived at our destination.  Directly ahead is a large, white, decorated entrance to the museum, but that’s not for the public.  To the left of that pearly entrance was a set of glass doors and tons of line separators.  Usually, those lines are filled all the way around the corner and then some, but today they were barren.  Good omens, right?  Well the inside was still full of people.  To enter, we had to pass through a small security station like when entering the other sections of the Vatican.  We then got our headsets and set off for the museum.  Actually, that’s sort of a lie.  Rather than going straight up the stairs into the museum, Gino led us behind the information desk to two stray statues to explain how they used to all be painted.  Surely nobody ever looks at those statues because we received strange looks from the workers at the info desk.

A great view from within the museum grounds

A great view from within the museum grounds

Finally we made it into the museum plaza which had a plethora of branches and directions to go that were filled with rich pieces of history. Guess which one we went into?  None of them.  Since we only had about 2 hours and Gino liked to talk a lot, we headed straight towards the Sistine Chapel.  Along the way we stopped in one side room where Gino took his time to discuss the marble.  Yeah, pretty much just the marble.  The passage to the Sistine Chapel is long and a bit crazy.  It begins with a large, arched hallway that stretches forward for what seems like forever.  That corridor is divided into sections covering art like sculptures, maps, tapestries, and more.  Do you remember how I mentioned there were a ton of people inside the museum?  Well 99% of them were in this segment, all on their way to the chapel.  Most of the time spent moving through that corridor is just getting funneled along with the crowd.  If you’re lucky you can jump out of the stream to the side of a door.  Gino relied on our ability to do so a little too much, so soon enough our group was divided and conquered.  Eventually we regrouped and moved forward through the crowd.  After the corridor were a handful of papal residence rooms which had paintings from top to bottom that were quite impressive.  We were still a ways away from the chapel.  Members of the group got caught in the undertow of the tourists and so had to press on and hope for the best.  I was among those poor souls.

Trust me, the crowds I mentioned showed up a minute later

Trust me, the crowds I mentioned showed up a minute later

After the papal residence, tourists are forced into the modern art section which, all in all, is about 30 rooms of content.  Our focus was the chapel so I powered through those rooms.  Along the way I noticed strange works of art with obscured faces and others made of some simple shapes.  I don’t understand modern art.  Finally, I made it to the Sistine Chapel, and soon afterwards the rest of the group made it in.  Inside the chapel, tourists aren’t supposed to talk or take photos so there’s a handful of guards going around enforcing the rules.  Ironically, those guards are the main sources of noise as they constantly shout out “No photo!”  The Sistine Chapel, while not humongous, is impressive for it’s masterpieces of art covering every inch of the walls and ceiling.  While the walls were painted by a handful of unmentioned artists, the ceiling and altar wall were painted by Michelangelo himself.  His altar wall depicts the end of the world and the ceiling has various scenes from the beginning of the bible.  It’s very hard to describe, so below I’ve included a link to a virtual view of the chapel (copy and paste it into your browser address bar).

 

http://www.vatican.va/various/cappelle/index_sistina_en.htm

 

About a half an hour later, we exited the chapel and too the Vatican, broke off for lunch, and then reassembled in the square an hour later. Nearly one mile southwards along the Tiber in the Trastevere region was the John Cabot University, a small private college that caters to foreigners like ourselves.  The entrance isn’t very recognizable among the surrounding buildings, but once inside it feels very college-like.  It’s a multi-level, more or less modern school.  Rather than it all being in one location, it has two campuses, the northern one (where we arrived) and a southern one not more than 1/4 mile away.  Upon arrival we were led to a classroom where we were greeted by the president of the university.  Previously we had been told he wouldn’t be able to make it because of some emergency, but apparently he had come back just in time.  I don’t recall exactly what he said about where he had been, but I’m pretty sure he said the Italian president had just quit.  Anyways, he gave us a riveting presentation on Italian politics.  He covered politics from World War II up to present day, and it was all quite interesting.  He even gave us an insider tip that around the 2oth, the Italians may be attempting an American strategy to boost their economy which may effect the value of the euro, bringing it down close to a 1:1 ratio with the US dollar.  No guarantees though.

At the center behind the blinding light is the university's president

At the center behind the blinding light is the university’s president

Afterwards, we were split into three groups and given tours of the campuses by some students.  Our tour was somewhat awkward since our guide began under the assumption we were incoming students and not just tourists.  Whoops.  That issue quickly became evident and we cleared the air.  The two sites were nice buildings and the University looked like a great school, both sharing similar setups.  We had arrived at a pretty fortunate time since they were setting up for the coming semester but had not yet begun class.  Once all was said and done, the group split up and some students headed back while others visited the local microbrewery.  The beer there was some of the best we’ve ever had, so we’ll be headed back.

 

That’s all for now!  Tomorrow’s post will be short since we’re giving some class presentations after a lecture in the morning.  Thanks for reading!

 

– Chris Apfeld

 

p.s. We’ve had t-shirt/light jacket weather here and after seeing weather reports for back home have no regrets about leaving the country.